Fabric Glossary: Fabric Types & Sewing Terms Explained

Exquisite Fabric's plain-English glossary of fabric types, weaves, and sewing terms. Written by the team at our Los Angeles Fashion District store (est. 1999). Use it to choose the right material for your next dress, costume, or upholstery project — every term links to what we stock in 20,000+ SKUs.

Stretch & Knit Fabrics

4-Way Stretch

Fabric that stretches both crosswise and lengthwise and recovers in both directions. Essential for swimwear, dancewear, leggings, and fitted cosplay. Most spandex blends are 4-way.

2-Way Stretch

Stretches in one direction only (usually selvage to selvage). Fine for fitted wovens and some costumes; not ideal for activewear.

Spandex (Lycra/Elastane)

The elastic fiber blended into knits to create stretch and recovery. "Nylon spandex" and "poly spandex" describe the main fiber it's blended with.

DTY Brushed Poly

Double-brushed polyester spandex knit — buttery soft with a peach-skin face. The standard for leggings and soft dresses.

Jersey Knit

A single-knit fabric with fine vertical ribs on the face. Drapes softly; the classic t-shirt fabric. Cotton spandex jersey adds stretch and recovery.

Ponte

A stable double-knit that holds structure — great for blazers, fitted dresses, and pants.

Stretch Velvet

Velvet pile on a spandex knit base. Rich light-catching texture that still stretches — a favorite for dance costumes, holiday wear, and cosplay bodysuits.

Lace & Bridal

Corded Lace

Lace with a raised cord outlining the motifs, adding dimension. A bridal staple.

Beaded Lace

Lace embellished with sewn-on beads, sequins, or pearls. Sold by the yard for gowns and veils; check bead weight when planning drape.

Embroidered Lace

Designs stitched onto a net or tulle ground rather than woven in. Allows intricate florals and scalloped borders.

Appliqué

A cut-out lace motif sewn onto a garment — used to trim bodices, veils, and sleeves without buying full yardage.

Scalloped Edge

The finished, wavy border woven into many laces. Plan your pattern layout so scallops fall at hems and necklines.

Tulle

Fine, stiff net used for veils, overskirts, and volume. Softer "bridal illusion" versions sit closer to the skin.

Costume & Specialty

Faux Fur

Synthetic pile fabric imitating animal fur. Pile height (short shag to long luxe) determines the look; cut from the backing side with a razor to keep the pile intact.

Minky

Ultra-soft short-pile plush (often with dimple dots) used for blankets, plush toys, and mascot costumes.

Sequin Fabric

Sequins stitched to a mesh or knit base. "Reversible/mermaid" sequins flip to change color — huge for costumes and stagewear.

Iridescent / Foil Print

Finishes that shift color with light (iridescent) or carry a metallic printed surface (foil). Popular for dance, rave, and snake/mermaid-skin costume effects.

Vinyl / Faux Leather

A polyurethane or PVC face on a knit or woven backing. Used for jackets, bags, upholstery, and armor-look cosplay. "Foam-backed" versions add cushion for upholstery.

Marine Vinyl

UV- and mildew-resistant vinyl rated for boats and outdoor furniture. Gauge (thickness) is measured in mils.

Chainmail Mesh

Metallic-look mesh knit that mimics armor while staying light and sewable — a cosplay shortcut for medieval and sci-fi builds.

Wovens & Basics

Poly Cotton

Polyester-cotton blend combining cotton's breathability with polyester's durability and wrinkle resistance. The workhorse for quilting, crafts, and island-print shirts.

Chambray

A plain-weave fabric with colored warp and white weft — the "denim look" without denim's weight.

Denim

Sturdy twill-weave cotton. Weight is given in ounces per square yard; 10 oz+ is jacket/jeans territory.

Satin

A weave (not a fiber) with a glossy face and matte back. "Stretch satin" adds spandex for fitted eveningwear.

Felt

A non-woven fabric of matted fibers. Doesn't fray — cut edges stay clean, ideal for crafts and costume detailing.

Buying & Sewing Terms

By the Yard

Fabric cut continuously to your ordered length (36" per yard) at the full bolt width. Order 3 yards, receive one 3-yard piece.

Bolt Width

The fabric's width on the roll, usually 45"–60". Wider bolts often need less yardage per garment.

Selvage

The finished lengthwise edges of the fabric that won't unravel.

Grain / Bias

Grain runs parallel to the selvage; bias is the 45° diagonal, where wovens stretch most — bias-cut garments drape fluidly.

Drape

How a fabric falls. Fluid drape (satin, DTY) skims the body; crisp hand (denim, felt) holds shape.

GSM / Ounce Weight

Fabric weight per area. Heavier = more structure and opacity; lighter = more flow and sheerness.

Recovery

A stretch fabric's ability to snap back to shape. Good recovery prevents baggy knees and stretched-out waistbands.

Frequently Asked Questions

What fabric should I use for a Halloween costume?

For fitted looks: 4-way stretch spandex, stretch velvet, or foil/iridescent prints. For creatures and mascots: faux fur or minky. For armor: faux leather, vinyl, or chainmail mesh. All ship by the yard from our LA warehouse.

What lace is best for a wedding dress?

Beaded and corded embroidered laces give the classic dimensional bridal look; use matching appliqués for veils and trims so motifs coordinate.

How much fabric do I need for a dress?

A knee-length fitted dress typically takes 2–3 yards of 58/60" fabric; add a yard for sleeves, gathering, or directional prints. Check your pattern envelope for exact yardage by bolt width.

Can I order fabric samples?

Yes — contact us at 213-222-8285 or admin@exquisitefabric.com and we'll help you confirm color and hand before you buy yardage.

Exquisite Fabric — 1024 Santee Street, Los Angeles Fashion District. Carrying Lace USA, Blue Moon Fabrics, Islands Fabric, and 20+ premium brands since 1999. Ships worldwide.